Surrounded by Lions

I stare at dark drops of blood on the dusty ground. Nearby, huge paw prints are pressed deep into the dirt. At least three lions were here. Maybe more. 

A few feet away, there’s a pair of long, curving animal horns. Those horns and the drops of blood are all that’s left of a deerlike animal, a reedbuck. Lions followed it, killed it, and then devoured it. 

My heart pounds as I stare at this deadly scene.

 Just two days ago, I was at my home in Connecticut. There, the wildest beast I know is my poodle, Roy. Now I’m about 8,000 miles away from home, in the African country of Botswana. 

I’m here for a week, exploring one of the most amazing places on the planet: the Okavango (oh-kah-VAHNG-oh) Delta. It’s a huge wetland in the middle of a desert. This wetland is bigger than New York City, Los Angeles, Houston, and Chicago all put together. But it’s all trees and grass and swamps and water. There are no towns, no paved roads, and very few people. The land is set aside just for wild animals. 

Close your eyes and imagine the most dazzling African wilderness from your dreams. All around you is a green and golden land, with twisting streams and sparkling ponds. Hippos and crocodiles splash in the water. Huge herds of elephants stroll slowly through the trees. Zebras, giraffes, and Cape buffalo nibble on fresh plants. Rainbow-colored birds flash by. 

This is the Okavango Delta.

I stare at drops of blood on the dusty ground. There are huge paw prints in the dirt. At least three lions were here. Maybe more. 

Nearby, there’s a pair of long, curved horns. They belonged to a deerlike animal, called a reedbuck. Lions followed it, killed it, and devoured it. 

My heart pounds. 

Just two days ago, I was at home in Connecticut. The wildest beast I know there is my poodle, Roy. Now I’m about 8,000 miles away in Botswana, a country in Africa. 

I am here to visit the Okavango (oh-kah-VAHNG-oh) Delta. It’s a huge wetland in the middle of a desert. It is bigger than New York City, Los Angeles, Houston, and Chicago combined. But there are no towns or paved roads. There are very few people. The land is just for wild animals. It’s full of trees, grass, swamps, and water. 

Close your eyes and imagine it. The land around you is green and gold. There are twisting streams and sparkling ponds. Hippos and crocodiles splash in the water. Elephants walk slowly through the trees. Zebras, giraffes, and Cape buffalo eat fresh plants. Rainbow-colored birds fly by. 

This is the Okavango Delta.

I’ve come here to research a book I’m writing—the newest story in my I Survived series. This one is about an American boy whose plane crashes in this wilderness. Injured and terrified, he must survive a long night surrounded by lions and other hungry predators.

I hope to learn all I can about this place and its animals, especially lions. This will help me write a book that is as realistic and exciting as possible. 

With me today is a young man named Esefa Mokopi. He grew up in a village at the edge of the Okavango Delta. He then went to school to be trained as a wilderness guide. 

Esefa can name any animal by its paw print, any bird by its song, any insect by its buzz.  Now he crouches low, studying the lion paw prints in the dirt. He points to the bloody bits of flesh still clinging to the horns.

“This kill happened within the last hour or so,” he says. “The lions must be close.”

This is what I’ve been waiting for, my chance to see lions up close. My heart races.  

Do I really want to come face-to-face with one of the world’s most feared predators?

I am here to do research for a new book in my I Survived series. In this story, an American boy’s plane crashes in the Delta. He is hurt and scared. The boy must survive a long night surrounded by lions and other hungry predators. 

I hope to learn all I can about this place. This will help me write a book that feels real and exciting. 

Today I’m with a young man named Esefa Mokopi. He grew up in a village near the Okavango Delta. Then he went to school to become a wilderness guide. 

Esefa can name any animal by its paw print, any bird by its song, and any insect by its buzz. Now he studies the lion tracks in the dirt. He points to the bloody meat on the reedbuck horns. 

“This kill happened within the last hour or so,” he says. “The lions must be close.” 

My heart races. I’ve been waiting to see the lions up close. 

But do I really want to see one of the world’s most feared animals?

Lions truly are the kings (and queens) of this African wilderness. Cheetahs are the fastest. Elephants are the biggest. Hippos have jaws that can chomp through a skull. Wild dogs can chase their prey for hours without tiring. 

But lions rule. A full-grown male can weigh as much as you and five of your friends combined. Their sharp claws hook into flesh and slice like knives. Their long teeth can crush bone. A lion can sprint up to 50 miles per hour, almost highway speed. 

Plus, lions have a superpower: teamwork. 

They are the only big cats that live and hunt in groups, called prides. A pride usually includes several lionesses, their cubs, and a few males. Mostly it’s the lionesses that hunt. They move together, like dancers on a grassy stage. They surround their prey, cut off escape routes, attack together. This is how they bring down animals far larger than themselves—like a 2,000-pound Cape buffalo or a young giraffe.

I remind myself that we humans are not lion prey. Attacks on humans are extremely rare. They usually happen only if a lion is injured, surprised, or protecting cubs. Elephants and hippos kill far more humans here than lions do. 

I look at Esefa. “I’m ready,” I say.

Lions are the kings and queens of this land. Cheetahs are the fastest. Elephants are the biggest. Hippos can bite through skulls. Wild dogs can chase their prey for hours. 

But lions rule. A full-grown male can weigh as much as you and five of your friends together. Their sharp claws slice like knives. Their long teeth can crush bone. A lion can run up to 50 miles per hour. That’s almost as fast as a car on the highway. 

Lions also have a superpower: teamwork. 

They are the only big cats that live and hunt in groups, called prides. A pride usually has several lionesses, their cubs, and a few males. The lionesses do most of the hunting. They move together, like dancers on a grassy stage. They surround their prey, block escape routes, and attack together. This helps them bring down larger animals, like a 2,000-pound Cape buffalo or a young giraffe. 

I remind myself that lions do not hunt people. Attacks on humans are very rare. They usually happen only if a lion is hurt, surprised, or protecting cubs. Elephants and hippos kill more humans here than lions do. 

I look at Esefa. “I’m ready,” I say.

We drive off the dirt path and cross a deep stream. Esefa goes slowly, scanning all around us. It’s eerily quiet. We circle around a big tree. Then Esefa stops the car. 

That’s when I see it. Something moving—something big. 

It’s a large lioness. 

No. 

There are two. Three. Four. Five. 

Five female lions. 

They are coming right at us. 

A jolt of fear grips me. I forget what I learned about lions usually not attacking humans. All I can think is this: I am just another animal, flesh and blood, like that reedbuck. This jeep has wide-open sides—
it would be nothing for the lions to jump in.

I expect the lions to growl, to show their teeth. I brace myself. 

But the lions don’t even look at us. This is what Esefa said would happen. To these lions, our jeep—and the people inside—is no more exciting than a passing cloud. Why? Hunting lions is not allowed here. These animals have probably never heard a gunshot. They have never been chased by a jeep. The lions have learned that humans are nothing to fear.

Sadly, this is not true in most other places. Right now, wild lions are fighting for their survival.

We drive off the dirt path and cross a deep stream. Esefa goes slowly and looks all around us. It’s eerily quiet. He drives around a tree and stops the car. That’s when I see something move. Something big. 

It’s a large lioness.

No. 

There are two. Three. Four. Five. 

Five female lions. 

They are coming right at us. 

I feel a jolt of fear. I forget that lion attacks are rare. All I can think is that I am just another animal, like that reedbuck. This jeep has open sides. The lions could jump in. 

I expect the lions to growl and show their teeth. I brace myself. 

But the lions don’t even look at us. Esefa said that would happen. The lions aren’t interested in our jeep or the people inside. Why? Hunting lions is not allowed here. They have probably never heard a gunshot. They have never been chased by a jeep. The lions do not think humans are scary. 

Sadly, this is not true in most other places. Wild lions are fighting to survive.

Hundreds of years ago, there were likely about 500,000 lions on Earth. They lived across almost all of Africa, and even in parts of Europe and Asia. 

But over time, humans hunted lions by the thousands. People were scared of them. So they shot, trapped, or poisoned the animals. As farms and towns spread, lions lost the land they needed to find food. Little by little, they were pushed out—until lions could only be found in Africa.

But even there, they have not been safe.

Scientists estimated there were about 100,000 lions left in Africa in the early 1900s. Today only around 20,000 remain. Most live in just three countries: Tanzania, Kenya, and Botswana. These places set aside large wilderness areas for animals only. People are not allowed to build homes or towns here. And lion hunting is banned or tightly limited.

One of these protected areas is the Okavango Delta. It’s one of the last places on the planet where lions can thrive.

Hundreds of years ago, there were likely about 500,000 lions on Earth. They lived in Africa, Europe, and Asia. 

People were afraid of them. So they shot, trapped, or poisoned lions. As farms and towns spread, lions lost their land. They didn’t have enough space to live and find food. Eventually, lions could be found only in Africa. 

But even there, they have not been safe.

In the early 1900s, scientists believed there were about 100,000 lions left in Africa. Today there are only around 20,000. Most live in Tanzania, Kenya, and Botswana. These countries protect land for animals. People are not allowed to build homes or towns there. Lion hunting is banned or
very limited. 

The Okavango Delta is one of these protected areas. It’s one of the last places on the planet where lions can thrive.

I think of this as the lions come closer. 

They are now barely 5 feet away. I see their muscles rippling under their fur. I see their long lashes and flecks of brown in their beautiful golden eyes. I see each of their whiskers, the fleshy pads underneath their gigantic paws, the flies buzzing around their ears. 

All of them have scars and nicks on their bodies. Being a wild lion is hard, even here. They often go days without catching prey. And to bring down an animal, they must face slashing horns, stabbing tusks, and skull-cracking hooves. 

Now, after devouring that poor reedbuck, it’s time for the lions to rest. 

One by one, they plop themselves down. They huddle together, tails intertwined, paws touching. Some lay on their backs, their pale bellies facing the blue sky. Others curl up like house cats. 

I take notes and think about how I will bring all of this to life in my I Survived book. 

But mostly I just sit there with Esefa, watching. I am surrounded by lions. I can’t remember when I’ve felt luckier.

I think about this as the lions move closer. 

They are now barely 5 feet away. I see their muscles under their fur. I see their long lashes and their beautiful golden eyes. I see their whiskers. I see the soft pads underneath their huge paws. I see the flies buzzing around their ears. 

All of them have scars on their bodies. Life is hard for wild lions, even here. They can go days without food. The animals they hunt fight back with sharp horns, long tusks, and powerful hooves. 

Now, after catching the reedbuck, it’s time for the lions to rest. 

One by one, they lie down close together. Their tails are intertwined and their paws touch. Some lay on their backs. Their bellies face up toward the blue sky. Others curl up like house cats. 

I take notes and think about how I will write about this in my I Survived book. 

But mostly I just watch with Esefa. I am surrounded by lions. I can’t remember when I’ve felt more lucky.